Tag: German Traditional Food

Legendary Dishes | Eintopf mit Würstchen (pot-stew with sausages)

AUSTRIA GERMANY

There are legendary dishes and there is pot stew, the food in the fields dish with origins in the cauldron tradition and even further back in the first bronze pots of antiquity – the brunzin – a name still in existence in some food cultures to describe the dish.

Generally a pot stew contains meat, vegetables and aromatics in the form of herbs and spices. With the advent of the sausage tradition, the pot stew got a new definition, seen in those food cultures where sausages of all shapes and sizes define the method.

The sausages that go into an eintöpf are hard sausages – cold smoked or cured for a long time to produce a depth of flavour that will emerge in the medium of the stew. There are so many variations of eintöpf with würst it is impossible to say if there is a defintive version. This is our interpretation, based on the traditional pot stews of yesteryear.

  • 1 litre vegetable broth, lukewarm
  • 6 mettwürst (beef-pork sausages), sliced
  • 600 g potatoes, cubed small
  • 300 carrots, cubed small
  • 300 g fresh broad beans / fresh green beans
  • 250 g onion, chopped
  • 60 g tomato paste
  • 5 garlic cloves, minced
  • 3 tbsp olive oil
  • 5 g black pepper
  • 5 g salt
  • 1 tbsp dried marjoram
  • 1 tbsp fresh sage, chopped

Sauté garlic and onion over a medium heat in a large pot for 15 minutes. Add tomato paste, cook for a couple of minutes, then add the broth and seasonings. Add the beans, carrots, potatoes, sausages and herbs. Cover and cook over a low heat for 90 minutes.

Legendary Dishes | Bouneschlupp (bean and sausage soup)

BELGIUM FRANCE LUXEMBOURG GERMANY

The origins and contents of this enigmatic soup are disputed between Luxembourg and its neighbours in Gaume, Lorraine and Saarland who all claim it as one of their traditional dishes. What is not disputed is the method. Whether the ingredients include leeks or onions, mettwürst or smoked bacon, more or less green beans and cream or no cream, this is a slow soup. The use of mettwürst is not sacroscant, other regional sausages are also favoured. Like many of the traditional dishes of Luxembourg, this is a bean and sausage soup, simply made.

Mettwürst Version

  • 2 litres water
  • 500 g green beans, cut into small pieces
  • 500 g leeks / onions, sliced thin
  • 500 g potatoes, cubed small
  • 4 mettwürst / sausage
  • 30 ml olive oil
  • 10 g black pepper
  • 5 g salt

In a large pot sweat the leeks or onions in the oil covered over a low heat for 15 minutes. Add the beans and potatoes and sausages whole, coat in the mixture, then add the water and seasonings. Cook over a low heat covered for 30 minutes, remove the sausages, leave to cool a little, then cut into thick slices. Remove some of the soup, blend and pour back into the pot with the sausage slices. Cook for an hour.

Smoked Bacon Version

  • 3 litres water
  • 800 g beans, cut into small pieces
  • 300 g potatoes, cubed small
  • 200 g onions, chopped
  • 200 g smoked bacon, cut into cubes
  • 150 ml cream
  • 120 g savory (optional)
  • 50 g butter
  • 5 g black pepper
  • 5 g salt

In a large pot brown the bacon in the butter over a low heat, add the onions and sweat covered for 15 minutes. Add the savory and seasonings, sweat for 5 minutes, add the beans and water, cooked for 45 minutes. Add the potatoes, cook for 15 minutes, add the cream and check the seasonings.

Ice Travel – Garmisch-Partenkirchen

 

The snow is visceral. Seasonal smells mingle with seasonal stragglers. The wafting aroma of baked fruits, nuts and spices. The smell of roast chestnuts. A fragrant air colliding with cold vapours. Christmas is long gone, yet its essence lingers.

The carnival detritus is also evident. The Maschkera have put away their hand-carved wooded masks for another year. The sun shines with a fierceness that contradicts the season, reflecting our images on every casual surface. We live in that lightness of being, walking the path from serendipity to inevitability.

This morning that path is alongside the Loisach river. We are not alone under the southfacing Almhuette and Wetterstein mountains, as we survey this magical twin-town and its surrounding peaks. Like us the people glance skywards. Unlike us they know their beloved heimat in the valley is sacrosanct.

Up at Zugspitze and Leutasch Dreitorspitze, familial high peaks, comforted by the knowledge of their perpetual existence. As is the traditional food.

Leberkäse – equal beef and pork, a quarter of that amount in bacon, one part water to four parts meat, seasoning and herbs – served with potato salad – potatoes and chicken stock, lemon juice and mustard – is our treat today.

The 4000 Bavarian butchers who specialise in leberkäse cannot afford to deviate from tried and tested recipes. Attempts to introduce an ingredient they believe will improve the quality of the finished product are usually rejected.

More often than not that ingredient is an egg, because the Bavarian leberkäse is made with an emulsion that can fall apart during baking. Butchers prevent this by freezing the meat, adding ice and keeping air bubbles out of the emulsion, so that when it bakes in a low oven it holds both its shape and texture. An egg would achieve that end. A Bavarian leberkäse should not be grey, it should be a pale pink with a reddish brown crust.

leberkase-lowresThe end slice, called scherzel, is coveted because it combines the crunchiness of the crust and the melt-inthe-mouth softness of the loaf. Leberkäse should taste delicious hot and cold. Hot it is cut into thick slices and served with potato salad or two fried eggs, and with sweet mustard. Cold it is eaten as a snack, usually with gherkins and a bread roll.

www.gapa.de

BAYERISCHEN LEBERKÄSE

600 g / 1lb 8⅓ oz pork shoulder, fat, sinew and tendon removed, chopped small
400 g / 13⅓ oz pork belly (without rind), chopped small
300 g / 10 oz ice, crushed small
125 g / 4⅙ oz onion, chopped small
20 g / 4 tsp salt
10 g / 2 tsp marjoram
10 g / 2 tsp white pepper, freshly ground
Butter, for greasing

Freeze meat for an hour. Preheat oven to 160°C. Blitz ice into snow, combine with meat, onion and seasonings. Blend smooth in a food processor, pour into a greased loaf tin, pushing the mixture into the corners. Bake at the bottom of the oven for 90 minutes. Remove from tin and brown under the grill, about four minutes each side.