BOOK | Blue Window | Culinary Adventures in the Alps | Switzerland IIII France II Italy IIII

LAUSANNE
Café Romand

[snip]


LAUSANNE
Vaud Farm Shop

[snip]

Lausanne
Vaud Farm Shop

Lausanne to Palézieux (train) 15-22 minutes


PALÉZIEUX
Spelt

[snip]

Palézieux to Chexbres (train) 21 minutes


CHEXBRES
Domaine Bovy

Domaine Bovy

Chexbres to Vevey 10 minutes


LAVAUX
Tradition Taste Terroir

The 30 kilometre stretch of vineyards alongside Lake Geneva are not only a bountiful gift of nature they are also testament to centuries of backbreaking human toil. For generations, winemakers have terraced these steep hillsides, building stone walls to protect their vines. The winemaking tradition in Lavaux dates back to the 12th century when Cistercian and Benedictine monks controlled the land. Now a UNESCO World Heritage Site, the region encompasses 14 municipalities and six certified winemaking sites – Lutry, Villette, Saint-Saphorin, Epesses & Calamin, Dezaley and Chardonne. The wine is complemented by the strong people place produce element of the region, with a range of products that reflect the extent of the terroir. [snip]


RECIPE — Dinkelbrot mit Mehrsaat spelt bread

RECIPE — Flutes au Fromage cheese sticks

RECIPE — La Pôchouse Suisse fish soup

RECIPE — Moelleux au Chocolat chocolate cakes

RECIPE — Pâté Vaudois Vaud pork pies

RECIPE — Taillé aux Greubons savoury pastries


VEVEY
Charlie Chaplin’s Shoes Are Made of Chocolate

[snip]


VEVEY
Street Market

[snip]

Vevey to Montreux (train) 7 minutes


MONTREUX

[snip]

Montreux to Saanen 65-83 minutes


RECIPE — Alt-Art Zwiebelsauce old-style onion sauce

RECIPE — Berner Rösti pan-fried potatoes

RECIPE — Birnenbrot pear bread

RECIPE — Birnenweggen pear wedges

RECIPE — Bratwürst mit Zwiebelsauce sausage and onion sauce

RECIPE — Butterzöpfe / Sonntag Brot Sunday bread

RECIPE — Gerstensuppe barley soup

RECIPE — Hühnerfleisch und Kastanien Suppe chicken, chestnut and bacon soup

RECIPE — Kalbsgeschnetzeltes veal in mushroom sauce

RECIPE — Käsesuppe cheese soup

RECIPE — Pilzsuppe mushroom soup

RECIPE — Rösti Ursprünglich pan-fried potatoes

RECIPE — Spiezer Frischkäsemousse latticed strudel with cheese mousse

RECIPE — Urdinkel Vollkornbrot mit Bruhstuck spelt bread with grain mash

RECIPE — Weggli breakfast bread rolls

RECIPE — Mutschli breakfast bread rolls

RECIPE — Zürcher Rösti pan-fried potatoes


BERNER OBERLAND
The Cheese Grotto

[snip]

Gstaad
Bernerhof Gstaad
Cheese Shop

Gstaad to Sanenmöser (train) 12 minutes


GSTAAD
Early Beck

[snip]


SAANENMÖER
Les Hauts De Gstaad

Golf Hotel

Saanenmöser to Zweisimmen (train) 25 minutes


ZWEISIMMEN
Café Life

[snip]

Zweisimmen

Zweisimmen to Spiez (train) 41-46 minutes


SPIEZ
Restaurants

[snip]

Krone
Schlosspintli
Seegarten Marina
Spiez
Swiss Bread

Spiez to Interlaken West (boat) 83 minutes


LAKE THUN
Thunnersee Schiff Restaurant

[snip]

Interlaken West to Spiez (train) 16-17 minutes


MULENEN
Niesenbahn

[snip]

Niesen Weathercam
Restaurant Niesen
Berner Oberland Webcams

Spiez to Mülenen (train) 7 minutes


ADELBODEN
Pear Bread Secrets

[snip]

Adelboden to Frutigen (bus) 30 minutes


FRUTIGEN
Lötschberger Express

[snip]


KANDERSTEG
Schüpbach Sausages

It is early morning. Hans Schüpbach is busy making the last of his summer sausages. ’We are closing at the end of the week,’ he says, turning from the shop counter display of cured and fresh meats and sausages into the back of his metzgerei (butcher’s shop). His sentiments remain unspoken. The icy grip of winter is on us.

Sausages – air-dried, cooked, smoked and raw – dominate Swiss food culture more than you would image. They are everywhere. They provide the backdrop to the seasons, at barbecues, festivals and markets, where they are eaten cold with cheese or hot with bread and sometimes hot with cheese wrapped in bacon.

The training centre for the Swiss meat industry in Spiez, the town where we changed trains after Gstaad, list 76 varieties, grouping them into three categories — scalded meat, cooked meat and raw meat.

Schüpbach specialises in cervelas, a smoked cooked sausage made with assorted butcher’s meat , and in dauerwurst, a cured sausage made with pork, beef, red wine, black pepper and coriander. His cervelas contains beef, bacon and water, with the emphasis on the beef. [snip]

Kandersteg
AFA Bus

Kandersteg to Goppenstein (train) 39 minutes


GOPPENSTEIN
Lötschberg Mountain Tunnel

The soft rain hangs in the alpine air like an afterthought. It is almost invisible, a portent perhaps. We are stopped at Goppenstein, waiting? A long car-train sits alongside, droplets of rain falling onto the tracks.
The mountains are shrouded in mist. There is nothing to see, and a feeling of oppression is hard to shake. We want to get out of here. [snip]

Goppenstein to Evian Les Bains (train, boat) 3 hours


LAC LÈMAN
White and Wispy

[snip]


RECIPE — Fondue Savoyard Savoy fondue

RECIPE — La Tourte a l’Abondance Abondance pie

RECIPE — Le Berthoud cheese bakes

RECIPE — Le Sérac Tranche fried cheese slices with olive oil and shallots

RECIPE — Les Crozets de Savoie aromatic pasta squares

RECIPE — Tartiflette cheese and potato pie


EVAIN-LES-BAINS
Water of the Alps

[snip]

Evian to Annemass (train) 38 minutes


ANNEMASSE

[snip]

Annemasse to Annecy (train) 57 minutes


SAVOY
Terroir des Alpes

We are in Annecy because we want to visit the Terroir des Alpes shop and talk to them about the short chain – producer to consumer in one link. Here they sell the produce from their farm – a range of homemade regional specialties. They also sell the products from local food artisans. Among these are the fantastic diots – smoked pork sausages and the amazing pormoniers – pork sausages made with chard, leek and herbs. [snip]

Terroirs des Alpes


ANNECY
Hotel Trésoms

Annecy is a cute little place — a small town with a big attitude, and best of all a sensibility toward sustainability. In the grounds of the Hotel Trésoms they have numerous hives housing almost a million bees. Sponsored by local businesses, the hives provide a window into the world of biodiversity. People take part in hive life and enjoy the fruits of the bees’ labour. The wider consequence of this biodiversity is a rich culinary tradition based on wild herbs and wild plants, to produce alpine milk that makes some of the best mountain cheeses in the world. [snip]

Annecy
Hotel Trésoms

Annecy to Chambéry (train) 37-56 minutes

[snip]


CHAMBÉRY
Re-Rendezvous with Rousseau

{story of Rousseau’s walk from Chambéry to Turin via the pass below Mont Cenis}

Chambéry to Albertville (train) 45-46 minutes


ALBERTVILLE
Beaufort Cheese, Crozets and Croziflette

[snip]

Albertville to Bourg-Saint-Maurice (train) 62 minutes


BOURG-SAINT-MAURICE | MONT CENIS
Mont Cenis Pass

[snip]

Bourg-Saint-Maurice to Susa (train / foot) 339-396 minutes / 29 hours


SUSA
Stretching the Dough (Breadsticks Story)

[snip]

Susa to Turin (train) 66 minutes


TURIN
Chocolate and Coffee
Coffee Festival

[snip]

Turin to Geneva via Milan (train) 321-350 minutes


RECIPE — Bavareisa chocolate coffee cream drink | Bicerin coffee and chocolate drink

RECIPE — Croziflette buckwheat pasta squares and cheese pie

RECIPE — Matafan / Matafaim savoury / sweet pancake

RECIPE — Mousse al Cioccolato chocolate mousse

RECIPE — Tartufi di Cioccolato chocolate truffles

RECIPE — Tuiles Dentelles crispy lace biscuits


GENEVA

[snip]


SECRETS & SOURCES

Back to the Front


SUMMARY OF ROUTE

Geneva to Chamonix via Arve River Valley

Chamonix to Aosta via Mont Blanc Tunnel

Mont Blanc via Skyway

Chamonix to Fully via Trient Valley

Fully to Brig via Rhône Valley

Brig to Stresa via Simplon Tunnel

Stresa to Göschenen via Rhône and Reuss valleys

Göschenen to Andermatt via Schöllenen path and Devil’s Bridge

Andermatt to Andeer via Ursen and Vorderrhein valleys

Thusis to Andeer to Thusis via Viamala (Splügen) path

Thusis to Li Curt via Bernina Pass

Li Curt to Chur via Landwasser Viaduct

Chur to Santis mountain

Unterwasser to Vaduz via Frümsen and Buchs

Liechtenstein and Rhine River

Feldkirch to Innsbrück via Inn Valley

Innsbrück to Garmisch-Partenkirchen via Isar Valley

Garmisch-Partenkirchen to Zugspitze mountain

Garmisch-Partenkirchen to Merano | Meran via Innsbrück

Merano | Meran to Bolzano / Bozen via Adige Valley

Bolzano / Bozen to Trento

Trento to Lienz in Osttirol via Drava Valley

Spittal-Millstätter See to Villach via Drava Valley

Villach to Udine and Carnia via Tagliamento Valley

Carnia to Jesenice via Sava Valley

Bled Jezero to Radovljica via Sava Valley

Radovljica to Kranjska Gora via Sava Valley

Kranjska Gora to Bischofshofen via Drava and Salzach valleys

Bischofshofen to Schladming via Ennstal Valley

Schladming to St. Johann

St. Johann to Kitzbühel and Wörgl

Wörgl to Salzburg via Inn Valley

Salzburg to Munich

Munich to Kempten

Kempten to Obersdorf

Obersdorf to St. Margrethen

St. Margrethen to Lausanne via St. Gallen, Zürich and Bern

Lausanne to Chexbres and Vevey via the Lavaux and Lake Geneva

Vevey to Montreux

Montreux to Saanan

Saanan to Sanenmöser via Gstaad

Saanenmöser to Zweisimmen via Simme Valley

Zweisimmen to Spiez via Simme Valley

Spiez to Interlaken via Lake Thun

Spiez to Frutigen and Adelboden via Kander and Entschlige valleys

Adelboden to Kandersteg via Entschlige and Kander valleys

Kandersteg to Evian Les Bains via Mountain Lötschberg Tunnel, Rhône Valley and Lake Geneva

Evian Les Bains to Annemasse

Annemasse to Annecy

Annecy to Chambéry

Chambéry to Albertville via Isère Valley

Albertville to Bourg-Saint-Maurice via Isère Valley

Bourg-Saint-Maurice to Susa via Mont Cenis and Frejus Tunnel between Modane and Bardonecchia

Susa to Turin

Turin to Geneva via Milan and Brig