BLUE WINDOW | Food Travels in the Alps | Rehrückenfilet (venison fillet)

One of the great traditional dishes of Germany, venison fillet has many clerks and cloaks yet has always remained rustic. It can be presented with a plain, seasoned, herb and nut or an aromatic crust. It can be accompanied by a range of purées – apple, chestnut, parsnip, pumpkin, wild mushroom – and sauces – chilli and chocolate, cranberry, fig, horseradish, mustard – and served with mustard potatoes, potato noodles (spätzle), red cabbage and any number of fruits and vegetables.

Fillet

  • 600 g venison fillet
  • 150 ml game stock
  • 30 ml rapeseed oil
  • 10 black peppercorns, partly ground
  • 5 juniper berries, partly ground
  • Nutmeg, freshly grated, large pinch
  • Salt, large pinch

Sauce

  • 150 ml game stock
  • 90 g shallots, sliced
  • 30 ml rapeseed oil
  • 15 g red currant jelly
  • Black pepper, large pinch
  • Nutmeg, freshly grated, large pinch
  • Salt, large pinch

Preheat oven to 100°C.

Combine black peppercorns, juniper berries, nutmeg and salt, rub into fillet and set aside for five minutes.

Heat the oil in a frying pan over a low heat, brown the fillet on all sides.

Place on an ovenproof dish, bake in oven for an hour.

Deglaze the pan with stock, keep warm over a low heat.

In a second frying pan, heat the oil and sauté shallots until soft.

Transfer shallots to the first pan, continue to cook for 15 minutes. Stir in jelly and reduce.

Remove fillet from oven, leave to rest for five minutes, cut into thick slices.

Serve with the sauce, some spätzle and a good red wine.

Another Version

Fillet

  • 600 g venison fillet
  • 100 ml game stock
  • 30 g butter
  • 30 g green peppercorns in brine
  • 30 ml olive oil
  • 5 g green pepper, fine ground
  • 5 g salt, fine ground

Preheat oven to 180ºC.

Season the fillet with ground green pepper and salt.

Heat butter and oil in an ovenproof pan, brown the fillet on all sides to seal in the flavour, remove from heat.

Pour the stock into the pan, add green peppercorns, put in the oven, bake for 15 minutes.

Prepare choice of accompaniment.

Remove fillet from oven, leave to rest for five minutes, cut into thick slices.