Who invented spaghetti carbonara? Naturally the Italians of course! Think again. This is a dish with origins in Naples and in Rome, and in Apennine rural life, so obviously it is Italian or is there a conundrum?
Rome Version
500 g spaghetti / fettuccine / rigatoni
4 eggs
150 g guanciale (preserved pork cheek), cut into strips / pancetta, cubed
90 g pecorino romano cheese, grated
60 g parmigiano cheese, grated
15 g butter
15 ml olive oil
Fry choice of pork in the butter and oil, cook pasta al dente and whisk eggs. Drain pasta. Stir eggs into the hot pasta, dress with an abundant sprinkling of cheese.
Naples Version
500 g spaghetti / fettuccine / rigatoni 3 eggs 150 g smoked bacon, cubed 150 g parmigiano cheese, grated 100 g cream at room temperature 15 ml olive oil Black pepper Salt
Fry bacon in the oil, cook pasta al dente and whisk cream and eggs. Drain pasta. Stir egg mixture into the hot pasta, dress with an abundant sprinkling of cheese, season.
Apennine Version
This is pasta cacio e ova – pasta with cheese and eggs.
500 g rigatoni 4 eggs 75 ml olive oil 50 g pecorino cheese, grated 50 g parmigiano cheese, grated 10 g parsley, chopped 5 g salt 5 g black peppercorns, coarsely cracked
Cook the pasta in boiling salted water. Whisk the eggs with a pinch of salt and a little of the cracked black peppercorns, add the cheeses and whisk again. Fry the remaining peppercorns in the oil for a few minutes, remove pan from the heat. Stir the tubes into the oil, add the cheese-egg mixture and cook it in the pasta. Serve dressed with parsley.
Amatrice Version
Invented by the shepherds of Amatrice and known as pasta alla gricia, this mid-day dish is characterised by the regional produce – specifically the preserved pork cheek called guanciale, the local pecorino cheese, black peppercorns and dried home-made pasta. Traditionally lard was favoured because it is less acidic than olive oil.
500 g rigatoni / spaghetti 250 g guanciale (preserved pork cheek), cut into strips 150 g pecorino amatrice cheese, grated 15 g black peppercorns, coarsely cracked 15 g lard / 15 ml olive oil 5 g salt
Salt the cooking water for the pasta. When the water comes to the boil add the pasta and cook until al dente, drain. Meanwhile in a saucepan heat the lard or oil, lower heat and gently fry the guanciale until it starts to crisp, adding the peppercorns. Pour the pasta into the pan, stir into the mixture, add half of the cheese. Serve with remaining cheese and more cracked black peppercorns.