Fricot Feature | The Goulash Story in Five Recipes

BELGIUM FRANCE HUNGARY LIECHTENSTEIN LUXEMBOURG NETHERLANDS ROMANIA

1: Kalbsrahmgulasch LIECHTENSTEIN creamy veal stew

This is the meat stew most people believe is goulash. It is a dish that became popular during the Austro-Hungarian era, now a traditional dish in Austria, Germany and Liechtenstein. Beef shoulder can be used as a substitute. This is an adaptation of the recipe by chef Christian Helmreich at Restaurant Engel in Vaduz. This stew is generally served with the small dumplings known as spätzle.

  • 1 kg veal shoulder, 4 cm cubed
  • 500 ml veal stock / beer
  • 375 g onions, sliced
  • 150 ml double cream / crème fraîche
  • 150 ml white wine
  • 125 g long red peppers, sliced
  • 100 g sweet apple purée
  • 60 ml rapeseed oil
  • 30 g sweet paprika powder
  • 15 ml lemon juice
  • 15 g tomato paste
  • 1 garlic clove, crushed, mashed
  • 10 peppercorns, crushed
  • 6 juniper berries, crushed
  • 2 bay leaves
  • Salt, large pinch

Fry onions, peppers and garlic in half of the oil for five minutes over a high heat, reduce heat, cover and sweat for 30 minutes. Place onion-pepper mixture in an ovenproof pot, add paprika powder, tomato paste, apple purée, crushed spices and bay leaves. Heat gently for five minutes. Deglaze frying pan with the wine, add contents to the pot. Brown veal cubes in remaining oil, set aside with a slotted spoon, deglaze pan with some of the stock. Add the stock from the pan and remaining stock to the pot. Add the meat and bring to a low boil, add lemon juice and seasonings. Transfer to oven. Bake, uncovered in the middle of the oven, at 160ºC for 100 minutes, add cream and finish at 140ºC for 20 minutes.

2: Tokány ROMANIA paprika stew

This is the original meat and paprika stew. Vladimir Mirodan says it was brought south to Bucharest by young Transylvanian girls in search of services and fortune. The kidneys can be from calves, lambs or pigs. The marjoram, mushrooms, paprika and sour cream are essential. Without them it does not have the distinctive flavour that make it one of the region‘s most popular traditional dishes. This is an adaptation from Károly Gundel’s Hungarian Cookery Book.

  • 500 g mushrooms, sliced
  • 350 g beef, cut into strips
  • 350 g pork, cut into strips
  • 350 g pork kidney, blanched, cut into strips
  • 300 g sour cream
  • 200 ml water
  • 150 g onions, chopped small
  • 150 g smoked bacon, cubed
  • 60 g sunflower oil
  • 6 garlic cloves, crushed
  • 30 g hot paprika
  • 10 g black pepper, freshly ground
  • 1 tsp mild paprika
  • 5 g marjoram, fresh or dried
  • Salt, two large pinches

Sauté onions in oil in a large frying pan over a low heat for 20 minutes. Remove from heat, add hot paprika, allow to soak in. Put pan back on heat, add beef, garlic, marjoram and seasonings, sauté until beef is brown. Add half the water, simmer for 10 minutes until the liquid has evaporated. Add pork, brown, simmer for 10 minutes in remaining water. In a separate frying pan sauté bacon and kidneys over a medium heat. When the kidneys are cooked add mushrooms and seasonings, cook for five minutes. Pour contents of bacon pan into beef pan, simmer for ten minutes, add mild paprika, then the cream and bring to a low boil. The aroma from this stew deters night creatures, so heavy with the garlic.

3: Carbonnades Flamandes / Stoofvlees op Vlaamse Wijze BELGIUM FLANDERS FRANCE LUXEMBOURG NETHERLANDS beef and beer stew

The western goulash, a sweet slightly acidic traditional dish of the low countries centred on Flanders. Chimay and Rodenbach are the preferred traditional beers for this iconic dish. Leffe Brune is acceptable. Stale bread spread with mustard was the traditional method of thickening the liquid, now gingerbread with its subtle spice flavours is used.

  • 2 kg brisket / shoulder beef, cut into 3 cm pieces, seasoned
  • 1 litre beef stock
  • 600 g onions, sliced
  • 375 ml dark brown beer
  • 250 g fatty bacon, cubed
  • 2 slices gingerbread bread / white bread, crusts removed, spread with mustard
  • 60 g butter
  • 30 g brown sugar
  • 30 g white wheat flour
  • 30 g mustard
  • 30 ml olive oil
  • 2 garlic cloves, crushed
  • 10 g salt
  • 10 black peppercorns
  • 5 g black pepper, freshly ground
  • 5 juniper berries, crushed
  • Green peppercorns, large pinch
  • 4 sprigs thyme
  • 1 sprig rosemary
  • 2 bay leaves

Brown beef in half the butter and oil in a large heavy-based pot over a medium heat in batches, remove and set aside. Add remaining butter and oil to pan, turn heat to low and sauté the bacon for five minutes, then the onions for 15 minutes. Stir the flour into the onions and brown lightly. Deglaze the pan with three tablespoons of stock, then pour in remaining stock with the beer and herbs and juniper berries. Bring slowly to the boil. Add the beef, then, if using, place the mustard bread on top, mustard side down or add the gingerbread and mustard. Add the garlic, black peppercorns and seasonings, turn heat to low to medium, and simmer for two and a half hours, stirring occasionally during second hour. Sweeten with sugar and cook for 30 minutes uncovered. Season, serve with pasta or potatoes, chipped or mashed.

4: Bogracsgulyás HUNGARY kettle stew

A traditional dish of the steppes, the essential ingredient was meat dried on the saddle. The Magyars added the meat to a large pot of water, then finished the dish with the addition of dumplings or root vegetables, heavily spiced with paprika.

  • 1.5 kg beef, 2 cm cubed
  • 1.5 kg floury potatoes, peeled, 2 cm cubed
  • 1.5 litres water
  • 500 g onions, sliced
  • 250 g fatty pork belly, cubed small
  • 30 g Szeged sweet paprika
  • 10 g Szeged hot paprika
  • Seasonings

Fry pork over low heat in a large pot until the fat begins to separate and the meat turns crispy. Remove with a slotted spoon, set aside. Fry onions in fat over a high heat, about five minutes, remove and set aside. Brown beef, return the onions to the pot with the water, bring to the boil. Add the sweet paprika, cover and simmer for an hour. Carefully slip the potatoes into the pot, bring back to the boil, reduce heat to low, season, cover, leave for 20 minutes. Sprinkle half of the hot paprika on top of the stew, leave uncovered for five minutes. Serve in deep bowls, adding a pinch of hot paprika to each dish, a chunk of bread on the side to mop up the juices.

5: Gulyásleves HUNGARY beef soup

Buda and Pest are among the few centres of civilisation in Europe where the peasant culture is still reflected in the choice of traditional foods available in restaurants. In Budapest soups start every meal, and most of the time that meal is a stew. The exception is gulyásleves, the beef soup known as goulash. It is often served as a main course accompanied with egg-flour noddles. Kéhli, one of the city’s oldest restaurants, specialises in traditional food including bean, beef, chicken and fish soups and the range of stews. Sípos Halászkert serves a diverse range of fish soups.

  • 1.5 litre of water
  • 900 g beef, cubed 2 cm
  • 500 g potatoes, diced small
  • 500 g onions, chopped
  • 300 g parsnip / turnip, diced
  • 300 g tomatoes
  • 250 g carrots, diced
  • 250 g green or red peppers
  • 100 g celery, cut small
  • 30 g lovage leaves
  • 4 garlic cloves, mashed
  • 10 g paprika, hot or sweet
  • 5 g caraway seeds
  • 2 bay leaves
  • black pepper, pinch
  • salt, pinch
  • Oil, for frying

Sauté the onions in the oil for 30 minutes, increase heat and brown the beef. Reduce heat, stir in the tomatoes and peppers, add the garlic and cover. Leave to simmer for 30 minutes. Add the bay leaves, caraway seeds and paprika. After five minutes add the vegetables, remaining seasonings and water. Cook until the potatoes are al dente.


FRESH FRICOT | THE FRONT PAGE


EDITORIALS     EURO SNACKS     FOOD CONNECTIONS     FOOD STORIES     GLOSSARY     HIGH FIVES     LEGENDARY DISHES    
RECIPES     REVIEWS     STREET MARKETS