Legendary Dishes | Mohrenköpf (chocolate balls)

EarlyBeckMilkTruffles
Truffles – the new chocolate balls

Traditionally these are cylindrical dome shaped confections with a marshmallow or sponge filling, a biscuit base and chocolate coating. Artisan production is dwarfed by the commercial specialists who insist the mechanical method produces better products.

Originally a German confection with a foam filling, made with egg, flour and jam, the Swiss claimed the ‘Moor’s Head’ for their own when the Germans and French adopted a more politically correct name, and began to significantly alter the traditional recipe.

The Germans renamed them Chocolate Kisses, and began to produce a different dessert.

The French altered the recipe so much that Boule Meringuée au Chocolat is closer to the Mohrenköpf than Tête Choco, which is effectively a chocolate ball.

The Swiss remain loyal to the original recipe, convinced by the popularity of their filling – a sugary foam made with egg whites for an airy texture.

But tastes are clearly moving from the light into the dark and this is reflected in the different versions of the Mohrenköpfe.

In French-speaking Switzerland the Mohrenköpfe is a Boule Meringuée au Chocolat – a chocolate ball filled with sponge cake and lemon or vanilla cream filling, sold and eaten fresh.

But this is one chocolate confection that is gradually losing its shine, so here are a few recipes for those who like these things.

The first one is an adaptation of the Swiss Mohrenköpfe, the cream and sponge fillings replacing the foam.


Mohrenköpfe

Sponge

  • 5 eggs, separated
  • 75 g pastry flour
  • 75 g vanilla sugar
  • 25 g cornflour
  • 1 tsp baking powder
  • Salt, pinch

Cream Filling

  • 400 g cream, whipped
  • 1 lemon, zest

Jam Filling

  • 250 ml milk
  • 45 g apricot jam
  • 25 g sugar

Biscuit Base

  • 175 g breadcrumbs
  • 50 g flour
  • 50 g mixed nuts and seeds
  • 2 eggs
  • 20 g butter
  • Salt, pinch

Coating

  • 250 g 70% chocolate, chopped
  • 30 g butter

Equipment

  • 2 bun trays with 12 moulds
  • 12 silicon moulds, same diameter at large end as bun tray moulds

Beat egg yolks, add flour, cornflour, baking soda and salt. Beat egg whites and 75 g sugar until stiff. Fold into yolk mixture. Pour batter into 12 moulds. Bake at 180°C for 15 minutes. Leave to cool on wire rack.

Form breadcrumbs, butter, egg and nuts into a soft dough. Bake in the same sized moulds as the sponges at 180°C for 20 minutes.

Leave to cool.

Boil milk, add remaining 25 g sugar. Heat jam, stir into milk-sugar mixture. Leave to cool.

Arrange the biscuits on greaseproof paper on a small tray. Spread jam-milk mixture thickly on each biscuit, top lightly with sponges.

Melt chocolate and butter in a bain-marie.

Whip cream with lemon zest.

Pour the tepid chocolate into each silicon mould, evenly coating the inside of the mould.

Refrigerate for an hour.

Place a large dollop of lemon cream inside each mould, place a biscuit-sponge sandwich on top, seal with a layer of chocolate.

Refrigerate for two hours.

Turn out of moulds.

Schokoküsse

GiantChocolateHead
Giant Chocolate Kiss

Sponge

  • 5 eggs, separated
  • 75 g pastry flour
  • 75 g vanilla sugar
  • 25 g cornflour
  • 1 tsp baking powder
  • Salt, pinch

Mousse

  • 250 g 70% chocolate
  • 150 ml cream, whipped
  • 5 egg yolks, beaten
  • 5 egg whites, whisked

Coating

  • 250 g 70% chocolate, chopped
  • 30 g butter

Equipment

  • 1 bun tray with 12 moulds
  • 12 silicon moulds, same diameter at large end as bun tray moulds

Beat egg yolks, add flour, cornflour, baking soda and salt. Beat egg whites and 75g sugar until stiff. Fold into yolk mixture. Pour batter into 12 moulds. Bake at 180°C for 15 minutes. Leave to cool on wire rack.

Melt chocolate for the mousse in a bain marie while beating the yolks. Stir into the melted chocolate after 15 minutes. Whisk the egg white, fold carefully into the chocolate mixture. Stir in the cream.

Refrigerate.

Melt chocolate and butter for the coating. When it has cooled pour the tepid chocolate into each silicon mould, evenly coating the inside of the mould.

Refrigerate for an hour.

Place a large dollop of mousse inside each mould, place a sponge on top, seal with a layer of chocolate.

Refrigerate for two hours.

Turn out of moulds.

Boule Meringuée au Chocolat

EarlyBeckAssortment
Chocolates are Evolving – this is a selection from the Early Beck shops in Switzerland

Sponge

  • 3 eggs, beaten
  • 120 g vanilla sugar
  • 40 g almonds, ground
  • 40 g butter, melted
  • 20 g pastry flour

Cream-Chocolate Filling

  • 200 ml Chantilly cream, whipped
  • 150 g 70% chocolate, chopped
  • 50 g butter

Dressing

  • 75 g 55% chocolate, flaked
  • 50 g cocoa powder

Equipment

  • 1 bun tray with 12 moulds

Mix eggs with sugar, sieve flours on top followed by a slow dribble of butter. Pour this batter into 12 buttered and floured moulds. Bake for 20 minutes in 170°C oven.

Boil cream, add 70% chocolate and whip into a soft paste with the butter.

Place in refrigerator for 30 minutes.

Cut each sponge in two, spread a thin layer of cream on one side and cover with the second side.

Top each sandwich with cream, dot with 55% chocolate flakes and dust with cocoa powder.


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